Posted on

Longtail Lesson: How to Avoid Forgetting Your Kill Switch

How to Avoid Forgetting Your Kill Switch

Hook the clip onto the handle cable, throtte handle stop or the pull-start rope.

There are a bunch of places to clip the end of your kill switch.

Black Warrior Lures Stem Swivels now on Amazon:

Three Proven Handline Rigs

Trifecta of Making Horsepower PDF

Get the free, original “How to Hot Rod Your Mud Motor” e-course:

Get the Chicken Liver Cure Recipe PDF:


Posted on

Product Review | Andrei-x Pipe Mud Motor Pipe

Andrei-x Mud Motor Pipe

Cool pipe! This guy made one for me in less tan a week. Good times!

Andrei-x Mud Motor Pipe

Andrei-x Ebay Store

Get the free, original “How to Hot Rod Your Mud Motor” e-course:

Get the Chicken Liver Cure Recipe PDF:


Long Stem Floats | now $1.25

Short Stem Floats | now $1.00

Short Stem Channel Catfish Floats | Handmade Slip-Bobber | Neo-Vintage Wine Corks

Channel Cat Chummers | now $2.25

Channel Catfish Chummer

Bass Crack Modern Mickey Finns | now $1.16

Modern Mickey Finn (a.k.a. Bass Crack)

Silver Bleeders (Gizzard shad Pattern) | now $1.16

Silver Bleeder | Gizzard Shad Pattern

Threadfin Shad Patterns | now $1.16

Threadfin Shad Pattern

Sipsey Claw Craws | now $1.15

Sipsey Claw Craw | Poly Dodger

Country Cue 1 by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (

BWL, vid. Andrei-x Mud Motor Pipe

Can’t wait to get this pipe up and running once the motor gets build. Check out Andrei’s stuff above. If you buy one of his pipes let him know you heard about it from the Black Warrior Lures’ channel.

Posted on

Hot Rod Your Mud Motor In Stages

Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-Course

Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-CourseOh, I just figured out how to give Darth Predt more power without him totally disintegrating. (Darth Predt is my SPS longtail for those of you who don’t know.) It’s the old stage system. In auto racing drivers and builders refer to a system of escalating stages for any motor build.

Here’s how it works. You buy a basic engine like a 212cc, 6.5 hp Predator, then follow this sequence:

Stage 0

  • Engine acquisition
  • Engine break-in with cheap oil
  • First oil change replace cheap oil with high-end synthetic oil
  • Zero modifications

Stage 1

  • cheap or easy modifications without modifying the motor’s interior components
  • this leads to significant increases in power because you remove the EPA’s restrictive exterior system components
  • add performance intake and exhaust
  • jet the carburetor
  • more power virtually no loss in reliability

Stage 2

  • more expensive or more difficult modifications without modifying the motor’s interior components.
  • billeted fly wheel
  • advanced timing key
  • stiffer springs
  • performance carburetor
  • even more power with little loss in reliability

Stage 3

  • cost effective but more difficult modifications made to the interior engine components
  • camshaft
  • governor removal
  • billet rod
  • high RPM
  • good balance between high power and engine reliability

Stage 4

  • all out, Mad Max, Evel Knievel mods of epic doom
  • high compression cylinder head
  • big carburetor
  • high lift rocker arms
  • lightweight push rods
  • crankshafts
  • basically a total rebuild from the bottom up with all racing grade components.
  • a custom build for a specific application. high torque vs high RPM.
  • most power output, least reliability: get ready to build a new motor after about five trips.

Keep in mind each stage builds off the previous stage.

If you want to know how to build and hot rod mud motors kind these, consider the free Hot Rod Your Mud Motor eCourse.

Posted on

Three Things Outboard Motor Manufacturers Don’t Want You to Know

Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-Course

Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-CourseI searched for several years to buy an outboard motor. The kinds of motors you see all the time here in the United States, the Johnsons, Mercuries, Yamahas and Suzukis of the world. Don’t get me wrong these are all nice motors, well built, but being a poor, country man like myself, these motors were out of my reach. The cost of acquisition was too high, maintenance and repair too complicated, and the closed architecture of these units meant I could not work on them myself without a diploma in marine outboard repair or mechanical engineering. Let’s look at these concepts:

Overly Complicated Motors

Have you ever noticed how cars have become as complicated as airplanes? Computer controlled this, that and the other. Well, outboard manufacturers have followed the same path. I love technology, and advances in such have brought better fuel economy to outboard motors that electronic fuel injection and computer controlled ignition brought to automobiles.

The cost? Well, good luck working on it yourself. If something goes wrong, unless you have the tools and training to work on a modern fighter jet, you’ll have to rely on technicians at the shop. Than means money. Not only that but get ready to have your boat in the shop for up to two weeks even for an oil change or tune up with $100 per hour shop rate.

That sets up the next point.

Cost Effectiveness

I went to Academy Sports to see what outboards they had. I needed something for less than $1,000, as that was all I could afford. Well, they had a 2.5 horsepower Mercury short shaft motor for $864. Do the math. That’s $345.60 per horsepower.

2.5 hp motor would have made a great trolling motor, but I needed speed, enough power to get up on a plane and get to my spots quicker so I could spend more time gunning and less time running. Eight to 10 horsepower would have been more like it.

As far as cost, hey, buy it online and save right? If you looks at some of the online outboard discount places, a 2.5 hp four stroke Tohatsu runs $869.99, more that the local Mercury. (Mercury power heads are made by Tohatsu, by the way.) The cheapest motor I could buy was almost out of my budget range with nowhere near enough power for my needs. An 8 hp Tohatsu? $1,599.99 or $199.99 per horsepower. A 9.8 hp Tohatsu? $1,799.99 or $183.67 per horsepower.

Notice how the cost per horsepower decreases as you buy more motor.

Build & Modify Yourself

Over Thanksgiving 2014 I built my own mud motor using a kit from SPS North America at $464.92, the power head a simple 6.5 hp go-kart motor from Harbor Freight at $106.82, and I bought a few hot rod go-kart upgrade parts for $48.99 from OMB Warehouse. That totals $620.73 or $95.49 per horsepower. That’s stock horsepower.

I don’t have access to a small engine dyno, but according to go-kart engine builders to do test these things, they have measured just shy of 9 hp with similar upgrades: intake, exhaust and carburetor mods. Let’s say 8.5 hp with the upgrades. The price per horsepower drops to $73.02.

These were mild upgrades, only removing the restrictive external components replacing them high-flow, high-performance parts. Just imagine if you went inside the motor and upgraded cam shafts, value trains, fly wheels and such. Would the costs continue to drop? That a post for another day!

Longtail mud motors are a great value-per-dollar option for anyone needing an outboard motor.

Good times, tight lines


P.S., If you have want to learn how to upgrade your SPS Longtail to get the kind of horsepower mentioned above without breaking the bank or ruining your motor, check out my new Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-Course. It’s free.

Posted on

SPS Longtail Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-Course

Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-Course

Hot Rod Your Mud Motor e-Course

Hey, guys. I just finished putting together a new video e-course teaching how to hot rod you mud motors. If you’ve been wondering how to get more horsepower and torque out of your mud motor without ruining the engine or breaking your bank account, this e-course might be for you. It’s free.

Good times, tight lines